The commonest member of the parrot family in Australia, the budgie's aboriginal name is "betcherrygah" which is said to mean "good food". The accepted Australian spelling of the name is "budgerygah" which we have modified to "budgerigar" and further shortened to the popular nickname "budgie".
In their wild state and native country the budgie has no fixed range but fly in immense flocks to where ever food (mostly grass seed) is most prevalent. About 1840 the bird captured the interest of English naturalist John Gould. He, in turn, captured and imported a number to England. The popularity of the "tiny parrot" quickly spread, and Gould soon found he needed to establish breeding aviaries to keep up with the demand. Color variations began to crop up in the normally green birds in about 1864. Careful selection of adults for certain colors resulted in the diverse and beautiful range of colors found today in the domesticated breed.
So ... to start the novice budgie owner out on the right foot, and ensure that they will enjoy their new pet from the moment they utter those words --"I'll take that one!"-- we have put together a small "care package" for you and your new budgie...
Before actually buying your budgie, the novice owner should always first buy or borrow a book on owning budgies. If you've read up on what both you and your bird will need from the start, the easier it will be to make welcome the newest member of the family.
First and foremost -- buy a cage designed for budgies, preferably one that has enough room for the bird to take one or two flaps of it's wings to go from perch to perch. This is extremely important for not only the physical development of the bird, but also for it's mental health. Your proper selection is crucial. After all -- this will be your budgie's home for the rest of it's life.
Buy regular wooden perches or use finger-width sized natural tree branches from untreated apple, peach, maple, or oak trees. Do NOT use cherry or walnut (since both are toxic) and don't collect from trees that have been sprayed. Steer away from sandpaper perches and sandpaper floor covering, too. They serve no useful purpose and their claim of helping keep the bird's toenails short is a myth -- in reality they only cause the poor budgie's feet to become irritated and sore. If you want the bird's toenails shortened -- just clip them!
Situate the cage in a brightly lit, active area - such as near the kitchen, family room, a high traffic hallway, or a window. This may seem contrary to what you'd expect, but a budgie loves activity - TVs blaring away, vacuum cleaners running, kids playing, and radios tuned to any channel whatever. The more activity, the better. If you mistakenly think you must tuck your new bird away in a quiet room without activity, just imagine how the poor budgie will feel. Image how you would feel being stuck in "solitary confinement"! Chances are the poor creature will simply sit quietly, hopefully waiting for you to come back and rescue it from such depressing boredom. Remember, they are a flocking bird and enjoy a lively chatter from both bird and human friends.
Have quality budgie food and fresh water ready in the cage for the new arrival, and a cuttlebone and a ring toy as well. In general it takes about 2 weeks for the bird to become fully acclimated to the new surroundings and new human family, but if it is made to feel welcome with a thoughtfully arranged and placed cage, the adjustment will flow much quicker.
or.. "A Budgie eats and sleeps like a ... well, like a Budgie!"
Many people have a preconceived notion that all birds must think and act alike. This can lead to a host of headaches for the new owner -- as well as for the budgie! We shall herein debunk some incorrect thinking (after all -- your budgie is not a canary!), and let you know what your budgie truly likes... and dislikes.
MYTH #1 -- On Sleeping ...
It is amazing how such a simple process can become the catalyst for the frantic call from the new pet owner that her precious baby budgie "is lying dead on the bottom of the cage!" -- when in truth this is how baby budgies often sleep!
In the wild the budgie would find a safe place hidden from predators in which to sleep -- deep underbrush, or a secluded branch high up, were the accommodations of choice. Unfortunately, the modern cage doesn't offer this amenities, and the owner is often puzzled to find the bird hanging upside down on the cage ceiling, or hunkered down on the floor (if the bird is a baby). That's because the budgie honestly doesn't want to sleep on a perch in the middle of the cage in full view. Much more to their liking is a small perch set high up at the top of the cage that they can use for bedtime.
MYTH #2 -- On Eating...
That same owner might also wonder why her little "Peaty" isn't too thrilled with slices of oranges, and turns a cold shoulder to tidbits of apples, grapes, and other assorted fruits.
Easy to explain -- budgies evolved as seed eaters. Grass seed, vegetables, and selected greenery are their diet in the wild. Very rarely is fruit ever part of the menu (although selected insects are). To ensure that your budgie is getting the proper nutrition, buy the best quality seed formulated for maintaining healthy feathers and condition. Then add vegetables such as
- carrots
- peas
- corn
- and broccoli.
Budgies also greatly benefit from having a cuttlebone in their cage to boost their calcium intake. Oyster shells available at all times are also encouraged. Just offer the shells in a small bowl and let the bird adjust it's own intake. A tiny bowl of oyster shells will often last up to six months.
It is also very important that you make sure that you check the food dishes daily! Most birds hull the seeds directly into the dish, and before long the bowl will contain only empty seed husks. Unfortunately, to a passing glance the bowl will still look filled with edible seed.
If your bird is shy about going to the bottom of the cage to feed (generally the case with young birds) place the food and water dishes on the perch that the bird prefers. This will encourage it to eat. Consider this the same as you getting a cafe table with a view. Your budgie will enjoy eating lunch and dinner so much more if it can enjoy the surrounding scenery at the same time. When the bird becomes more comfortable with the cage you can, if you want, move the food back down to the regular feeding stations on the cage floor.
MYTH #3 -- On Toys...
Often one happens to come across the new pet owner standing spellbound in the pet store bird accessory aisle, gazing in bewildered delight at all the toys, gadgets, mirrors, ladders, and what-nots that litter the shelves. But before you overload your shopping carts with presents for little "Peaty", take a moment to listen to these tips on safe and un-safe toys.
Toys to buy:
Toys to Avoid:Keep in mind that an English budgie should not have toys make for the size of a regular American parakeet (who are much smaller). Buy cockatiel sized toys.
- The favorite toy is a swing -- any kind will do. Remember: large rings are swings too.
- A lattice ball is fun for the birds to toss around, especially if it has a bell inside.
- Toys with leather or wood are fine.
- Twisted rope. Your bird will chew on it and pick loops that can accidentally catch their feet or legs.
- Twist ties to attach toys to the cage. They can get caught under the bird's lower beak, or cause eye or facial injury when the bird strips the paper off and exposes the sharp wire. Use a snap or a small chain.
- Toys with small openings that might cause the bird to get it's head or feet stuck. Look carefully at what you buy -- if you think it might hurt your bird... don't buy it!
Finally, don't clutter the cage so much that the bird has no room to fly. Keep in mind that flying is the best entertainment that a bird can enjoy.